Panama really epitomises the unexpected. I never would’ve dreampt that there was enough space left in Collingwood, let alone on the 3rd floor with such a view as this place. Collingwood has this amazing ability to do that though. On top of a Latin dance club, you keep climbing the stairs to what’s labelled as a fire door and there’s Panama Eating House.

In what is surely one of Melbourne’s most eclectic restaurants, there’s boundless open space filled with china cabinets, a bar, full sized pool table, couches everything for every whim. Unlike the chintzy red vynil and velvet cigar room downstairs, with the token Che Guevara motif on the brick wall, Panama is as opulent as cool gets. With great big windows overlooking the city, even the council flats look great at night! Somehow this place really reconciles the urban trashiness with the city glamour queens in bohemian harmony.

For now, Panama seems to be making a name as a bar, because there’s only a few tables and the food’s relatively inexpensive. I could see a main over $20, the wine list equally modest. Unlike the prices, the food could be better. A room this good deserves something more remarkable. Ohe thing they do have down pat is the service, which can’t be faulted. Absolutely top notch!

My gf had a coq au vin which was a little dry with underdone vegetables. Nothing too remarkable. Entrees were slightly better with some WA sardines served with a chick pea salad. Unfortunately though, especially compared to Wabi Sabi Salon down the road, nothing remarkable. I can’t remember what I had for mains. Yes it was that memorable! Unlike the view, not quite the equilibrium we were looking for.

When they get the food and wine right, Panama will really be something special. But you have to start somewher.