Lo and behold, Hvar must the be the only true pirate down of the Dalmatian coast. Because before they came, it probably had some beige name like Port Berkshire or something. But pirates mandate rolling Rs, so Hvarrrrrr it is!

All your Lovely Planet guide books describe Hvar as party heaven. In summer it may well be. But were walking past empty bars playing Tina Turner tracks to the dulcet tones of cicadas chirping into the night. So theres no better time to be there than now. Unless your single and grinding your teeth through the week until the next rave, choking on disco biscuits and crap dance tracks.

Hvar also connects to Bol, a tick on flies arse island that just happens to have the most postcard friendly beach in the world Zlatni Rat. Its a proper pebbly Euro beach, but what a beach. Not a surf beach by any stretch of the imagination, but no one comes here for that. If you want to pull up a glass of beer and a sun bed by the crystal clear Adriatic and do N-O-T-H-I-N-G for a week, just come here. It’s the dogs bollocks.

Not quite as wicked as Zlatni Rat is Pak Mižana. A beach all the locals go to. Yours for a ten buck ferry ride.

Its worth mentioning that Hvar is very millionaire yacht and resort friendly. There are plenty of Melbourne standard high class funky bars, a great old town, and an awesome castle to see. Despite all that, its cheaper than Dubrovnik and we found an excellent B&B for 30 Euros a night for a double.

Dead set, Hvar would be packed in summer. But right now at its chilled finest. A definite highlight of the journey so far.