The world adores matt hayward

Cacciatore is a provincial Italian dish that everyone cooks differently. I’ve never had it the same way twice in a restaurant. It’s humble, yet tasty and really satisfying. My mum used to cook it all the time, so I thought it was quite normal, but no one else seems to have heard of it, so I thought i’d ’share’. I fudged this version up last night and it tasted awesome. It’s one of those things you cook differently every time, but man this one was brill. So if your perception of Italian food is simple yet elegant and hearty, give this one a go.

Chicken Cacciatore (2-3 serves)
- 5-6 chicken drumsticks or wings
- Spices: sumac, oregano, sea salt, paprika
- 2 decent sized sticks celery
- 1/2 cup red wine (preferably lambrusco. Very cheap. Or whatever you’ve got. Preferably italian)
- 2 tins Roma tomatoes
- 3 cloves garlic, crushed and quartered
- half decent olive oil
- sliced black olives to taste (reading a shitload)
- 5 small mushies, sliced fine
- rice, 2 cups Jasmine or Basmati.

directions
Get a big arsed stock pot, put it on your biggest gas flame and get it nice and hot. Bung in the olive oil. Then throw in the garlic to infuse a bit. Now comes the Celery, chopped reasonably fine. Give it a good fry up for at least 5 minutes to infuse the garlic into your veg, otherwise it tastes a bit blando. Chuck in some sea salt too.

Now put the celery and garlic aside and chuck the chicken in. It’s ok to use frozen chicken, but you’ll want to simmer it extra long. Brown them evenly and give a good covering of sumac, paprika and sea salt. A good 10 mins should do the trick. Return the celery and garlic to the pan and now throw in the two cans of toms, juice and all. Now turn the heat down to a very gentle simmer. Last but not least, pour in the wine, mushies and olives. 1/2 cup is an approximation, you know what you like. Don’t waste your best shiraz on your cooking though. Even cask wine will do.

If you’re using a rice cooker now, time to put the rice on. The cacciatore should gently bubble for at least 45 minutes. Careful it doesn’t get too watery. When your rice is done, it’s time to eat.

The good news is, that like most curries, this gets better and better if you freeze it and heat it up again.

To drink
This isn’t a very overpowering dish, so you could even have a white wine like a Chardonnay. Softer reds like a Pinot Noir or especially a Sangiovese would suit this to a tee.

If you read the Epicurean section of The Age in Melbourne or pretend to have a clue, no doubt you would’ve seen all the trendy pizza restaurants emerging lately. They’re in urban heartlands, they do toppings and combinations you haven’t dreampt of before and are all representative of the new coming of pizza.

They’re doing their best to form a high expectation and make life difficult for you. You either can’t book to get in (eg I Carusi), have to book weeks in advance or have to be squeezed in some corner where the bar staff pity you. But is it all good? Well over the past few months I can tell you my favourite pizza joint hasn’t changed and there is a clear loser.

Mr Wolf is the most overhyped, straight out of Sydney, contrived pizza experience i’ve ever been subjected to. It’s uber metro and plush, but overly noisy and the staff rush you. I lost count how many times my water was topped up or table unnecessarily cleared; not what you’d call and intimate experience. Although to some people’s liking, these pizzas are oily! I’m assured it’s ‘good oil’ but not a good experience. You feel like you’ve done shift work by the time you pay the cheque.

Ladro’s, in the heart of Collingwood, however does live up to expectation. You may be waiting literally hours without a booking though, but you will be rewarded. Their mains (such as a goat stew) are to die for. While the pizzas certainly aren’t below par, the special of the day will no doubt be special far longer in the minds of the lucky consumer. A lot brighter and more cosmo than metro inside. Feels a lot more Melbourne than Sydney (don’t you wish you could bottle it?!). Make sure you book well in advance and don’t eat all day.

I Carusi in Carlton is more subtle and intimate. The menu is very no fuss and inexpensive. A great place for a romantic night out with unpretentious toppings and great pizzas. There’s even a chilli and brocolli pizza which i’m assured is excellent. You can’t book, but for the relatively inexpensive yet opulent experience, it’s unsurpassed.

I Carusi 2 in St Kilda is a more lively, less intimate version. Again I don’t think you can book and it’s basically the same far in a more street cafe environment. It’s a slightly lively, more pizzeria feel than a swanky restaurant unlike it’s Carlton protege. So whatever you prefer, or whoever you’re taking. You decide!

Finally there’s the old favourite, L’Osteria on Nicholson St. Which has been the gourmet pizza place of choice since I believe 1989. More an Italian restaurant than a up and coming trendy restaurant, it’s well priced, old Italian style and homely. Their gourmet pizza with beef sausage, parmesan and rocket is the favourite (the menu’s in Italian and im not!)

Not where you’d go for the trendiest chefs and most speculated wanky pizza topping but well on par with the newcomers and never booked out two weeks in advance. Their pizzas and mains are never bad and will leave an impression that will last far longer than the avant garde bathroom in Ladros.

So what’s the favourite, the brisket, anchovie, artichoke, sundried tomatoes and olive pizza I made at home last night. Go to them all, learn, try, do your own thing. But if you can’t be bothered cooking, there’s always a table at L’Osteria and you’ll never wish you stayed at home.

By Ben Canaider and Greg Duncan Powell.

There are several good things you can do under the influence. But most of them are illegal. Still no one can stop you getting pissed in your own house and whipping together a slap up meal. It’s really good to see though that these two blokes have apparently made a career out of it - and good on ‘em.

As you can tell, this ain’t your regular cook book. It starts with a preface on the five points to select a good wine to match your meal. Also all 100 recipies have a suggested wine (or beer) to bring out the flavour of the food. Oh, and not forgetting the wine glossary and guide at the back of the book. So it’s not just under the influence, it’s influencial.

Unlike their metrosexual, cockney counterparts these boys keep it down to earth. They have substitute items for when pay day is too far away, but don’t hold back telling you when you need to get the really good French wine either. Recipies in the book range from cheats’ pizza (highly recommended), consisting of dodgy fridge items to very flash, posh Euro recipies these bogany types learnt whilst ‘working abroad darling’. But nothing you can’t cook with a stubby in one hand.

This really is more than a cookbook. It’s funnily written and you can learn a hell of a lot from it without having to change your whole wardrobe or get tips in your hair. These recipies are far more fun than Bill Granger ones. So if you wear pink shirts with the collar up, check out his books instead. Finally a good cook book for us salt of the earth, Aussie types with a taste for fine (and bad) things! I say buy it. Broaden your palette and still remain a bogan!

Published by Murdoch Books. ISBN 1740453700.